Instead, “Let the Dogs Out!” will be an event. She told me that, for now, it’s a limited edition out of necessity it turns out it is not easy or efficient to turn actual hot dogs into ice cream that tastes good.
If you’re someone who likes to pick at the crisped, burnt bits of whatever’s been cooking on a sheet pan or the grill, “Let the Dogs Out!” will be extremely your jam.Īfter finishing my scoop, carefully using my spoon to find hot-dog bits for every bite, I asked Cuscuna if the flavor would be available all summer. If anything, the dehydrated pieces offer a purer and even more concentrated hit of savory sausage.Īnd it works! A self-selecting audience will appreciate this flavor. Instead, you get a satisfying crumble of umami, not unlike crispy bacon.īut while the texture doesn’t resemble traditional frankfurters, the flavor is pure Nathan’s, right down to the subtle garlic note. Bite in and you don’t experience the give of squishy meat. They possess a candied, shell-like exterior you can hold one between your teeth as if it were an M&M. Yet the subtlety of the toasted-butter base allows a taster to give most of your attention to the bits of meat, which are unmistakably hot dog, but like no hot dog you’ve previously eaten. Meanwhile, the hot dogs are sliced into rounds and caramelized down until they become the size of chunky pennies.Īt a distance, a scoop of this looks like it could plausibly be some sort of Rolo or peanut-butter-cup situation the hot-dog medallions have been browned to a shade of dark chocolate and the threads of emulsified yellow bun take on a butterscotch-y quality that extends beyond appearance.
Smith tells me they make the ice cream by buttering and toasting Arnold potato hot-dog buns - which eased my anti-Martin’s conscience - and then blending them into a sweet-cream base until the flavor gets incorporated throughout. No maple to temper the salt, as is so often the case with candied bacon-based desserts no cherry “relish” to approximate the brightness of ketchup. It is instead a “toasted buttered bun ice cream with medallions of caramelized Nathan’s all beef hot dogs.” It is a surprisingly straightforward interpretation of the assignment: There are no sweet-flavored ripples. “Let the Dogs Out!” is not an ice cream that shies away from itself. Any flavor, no matter how unexpected, is only as strong as the ice cream itself, and the Social’s ice-cream game is strong.īut let us make no mistake. But I have yet to try something made by Smith and Cuscuna that I did not like.
#Time out market brooklyn new york mac#
I refused to go near the Van Leeuwen Kraft Mac ’n’ Cheese varietal when that was around because I didn’t want to risk ruining Kraft mac for myself forever. A French-fry flavor at Morgenstern’s fell into the trap of tasting exactly like cold fast food. One sample spoon of Black Olive Brittle with Goat Cheese from Salt & Straw was more than enough. I was not on that Zoom call, but I was asked to be the official taster, a task I agreed to take on … let’s call it “not unreluctantly.” I have been burned by savory, adventurous ice creams before. They reached out to the Social with a rough idea (“hot-dog ice cream?”), and before any kind of “official” collaboration could come together, Smith and Cuscuna had gone off and created it. I should add that my colleagues at New York Magazine are not completely innocent of this flavor’s genesis. In this case, however, the name refers specifically to Nathan’s Famous hot dogs, the Fourth of July staple and year-round street meat that is synonymous with summers in the city. This latest concoction is called “Let the Dogs Out!”, a name that evokes both the Baha Men and the act of wearing open-toed sandals. It was only a matter of time before it happened, in other words, and now, hot-dog ice cream will in fact debut at the Social, the Prospect Heights scoop shop opened last year by Brian Smith and Jackie Cuscuna, two experts at creating unusual flavors with names that read like Maison Margiela candles: “Morning in Paris,” “A Cool Breeze,” and “Breakfast with Nonna D & Poppy” are but three examples. And with my apologies to rainbow bagels, there is no culinary innovation that screams “nouveau Brooklyn” quite like putting hot dogs into ice cream. With my apologies to saltwater taffy, there are no two foods that scream “boardwalk” quite like hot dogs and ice cream. Photo: Marcus McDonald Food stylist: Michelle Gatton A cross-section of the Social’s newest flavor.
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